• Make sure you have paddles or oars. Your tender may be powered by an outboard engine. But make sure that you have some alternative means of propulsion - just in case!
  
• Stop that banging: Tenders have a habit of banging against the hull as the wind shifts in the anchorage at 3.00 a.m. If you tie it alongside, consider padding the hull with a fender or two so that you can sleep through the night.
  
• Tie it securely: Whether you're towing your tender behind the boat or leaving it high and dry on a beach while you do some exploring, make sure that it's tied up well. On a beach, always secure the tender above the highest possible level that the tide and waves can reach.
  
• Tow it safely: If you pull your tender behind you from place to place, make certain everything is secured (oars, fuel tank, engine, and so on) before you get underway. Also, when backing or manoeuvring in close quarters, bring the tender close alongside so that you don't motor over the painter (tow rope).
  
• Only let crew operate the tender who are familiar with the operation of an outboard.
  
• Don't take your tender out of sight of your charter boat.
  
• Report a lost tender to base immediately and note location, time and state of wind and tides etc.
  
• Never operate your outboard closer than twenty feet from a beach...or it is obvious you are going into shallow water or over coral... often there is a shear pin in the propeller shaft that will fail if the propeller strikes an obstruction. 'Extract 100 magic miles'

Never plan a trip in your tender and operate the outboard after drinking alcohol... recognise that approximately 50% of all boating fatalities involve intoxication.

It is sensible to take life jackets aboard the tender when it is used...but at a minimum, children and non-swimmers should always wear life jackets.

Petrol is highly flammable, and its vapours are flammable and explosive... don't smoke and operate the outboard at the same time...Make sure there are no petrol fumes or leaking fuel lines before you start the outboard.

To Start:

1. Loosen the fuel tank 'breather' cap, just enough to allow air into the fuel tank. Remember to re-tighten this breather cap when the outboard is stopped.
   
2. Pressurise the fuel line
3. If engine is warm, open throttle slightly, if engine is cold, turn throttle handle to start position.
4. Pull on choke.
   
5. Check gear shift lever is in neutral position before starting. (Most modern outboard's cannot be started unless the gear shift lever is in neutral).
   
6. Hold top of cowl firmly with one hand while pulling on starter handle with the other. Finish pull with strong/fast stroke to start motor.
   
7. If choke has been used to assist with start, then push choke off immediately...if this is not done you can flood the motor.
   

To Stop:

1. Push red stop button
   
2. Close breather on top of fuel tank filler cap

If your outboard takes a bath

If the outboard should accidentally be immersed in salt water, it is extremely important your charter operator be notified immediately so the motor can be completely flushed out and remedial action taken. To check out what to do if your outboard takes a swim :
Refer to First Aid for a Dunked Outboard

Also see Troubleshooting your outboard

If engine will not start:

• Check the gear lever is in neutral (many outboards will not pull start if they are in gear).
  
• Is there fuel in the tank?
  
• Are fuel line connections secure... at each end?
• Is fuel tank vented?... Cap slightly open.
  
• Is the choke still on... maybe engine is flooded?
  
• Is there water in the fuel... tank or engine?
  
• Check and clean spark plug... Often a spare spark plug is in your outboard tool kit.
  
• If all else fails, read operating manual... if it is available and on-board.

When towing the tender make sure the outboard is tilted up to reduce drag - and tow at the full length of the painter.

Do not overload your tender...What may initially seem 'OK' while you are holding onto the stern platform, can very quickly develop into a wet or even tragic accident once underway.

The maximum 'safe' carrying capacity of your tender is shown on its compliance plate. Common sense is the guiding influence. A capsize or swamping through overload will mean...wet people, loss of personal equipment and often a drowned motor.

The best position to board a tender is from the stern platform of your bareboat, not from the water. If one party holds the tender, side on against the stern platform, the rest of the party should board one at a time... However if you must climb back into the tender from the water come in over the stern next to the outboard.

Important: Do not release the tender from the boat until the outboard has been started...and be careful not to put fingers, arm or legs between the tender and vessel.

Manoeuvring with a tender under tow

Always remember that your tender is attached and under tow. Unless you take precautions when manoeuvring you will probably come into contact with the tender and there is a high risk of the tender painter fouling the propeller..or the tender being caught under the duckboard (if reversing) and the outboard submerged.

• Bring the tender up short, but not that short it will jam 'crossways' across the stern if reversing. Tie off the painter to one of the stern cleats on your vessel making sure the loose end is out of the water and properly secured.
  
  
• Appoint one crew member to be responsible for the tender during any anchoring or mooring manoeuvres

If you are chartering in the Whitsundays, remember the tidal range. If you anchor the tender do not leave it unattended unless you are sure the anchor is secure.

When beaching the tender take care you are not caught by the tide going out and leaving you and the tender stranded 100 metres away from the water.

Tidal movement can be particularly critical if you tie up to a jetty... incorrect securing of the tender could result in it being 'hung up' as the tide recedes or totally immersed as the tide rises.

Outboard drives and propellers

Drives and propellers are usually broken or damaged because of poor judgement about water depth...Your first indication of this problem is your outboard motor will high rev without apparent gear engagement. The simplest way to avoid this problem is to never operate the outboard in shallow water.

Important: When approaching shallow water, always tilt the outboard before the bottom does it for you. It is good advice to either wade, or row ashore that extra 30-50 metres, to avoid damaging the outboard...but remember to watch the tide.

Dropping the outboard must always be considered a pretty serious matter...and as you stand there looking and feeling very dumb, dollar signs swim freely around your dazed mind. However provided you can recover the motor (and very often you can) it need not be a complete disaster and much can be done to limit the extent of the damage... provided immediate first aid is given - otherwise some corrosion may begin almost immediately.

Whatever you do, do not try to run it straight away, if the water has been ingested into one of the cylinders and it does fire, the resulting hydraulic lock can and will blow the cylinder head off or buckle and bend the piston and/or con rod... Plugs out first, please!

First aid to get rid of the damaging salt water before it has time to affect vital parts, can be easily carried out on board your bareboat or in the tender.

If the engine was running when it went under it will have sucked seawater into the cylinder and this too will need immediate special attention when giving treatment.

Although the engine must go back to an authorised dealer for a complete checkout, the following steps taken immediately when the engine is retrieved will keep the damage - and subsequently the repair bills - to an absolute minimum.

1. Thoroughly wash away mud, salt, seaweed, etc. using fresh water off your boat.
   
2. Remove the spark plugs and face the spark plug holes downward to allow water, mud or contaminants to drain form the motor. Try to access the magneto, if not, spray WD40 into inaccessible areas.
   
3. Drain the fuel from the carburettor - and clean well in petrol. Allow to dry
   
   Note: If your main fuel tank also went under (as well as the motor) you'll also need to flush out the tank and fuel lines with fresh water. Then rinse with methylated spirits and allow to dry.
   
4. Feed engine oil through the carburettors and spark plug holes while cranking with the manual starter or emergency starter rope (often you will have 'top-up' engine oil onboard).
   
5. Lay all removed parts out in the sun. Blow out all petrol lines, empty the carburettor. Dry off everything possible, including all electrical leads with a cotton rag, being careful not to leave any cotton strands or threads in the machinery... Spray with WD40, but don't soak.
   
6. Using a pressure pack lubricant spray, force lubricant into every possible opening to drive out remaining moisture.
   
7. Squirt a couple of drops of lubricating oil into the crankcase, and any bearings which should normally be oiled. Turn the flywheel slowly by hand backward and forwards.
   
   If any gritty sound is heard in the vicinity of a crank case or cylinder - or anywhere else for that matter - the first aid treatment should be terminated immediately... There is no alternative then but a chase call and replacement outboard.
   
8. Replace all parts, turn the motor over and check for a spark. If not check and/or replace all leads and connections until spark is there.
   
9. Heat up the spark plugs on your gas burner until hot - replace. Check HT leads for fit.
   
10. Fill fuel tank with fresh fuel (or old fuel with seawater settled and removed), add a little excess oil in the mixture and add 1/3 cup of methylated spirits (if available) to the outboard fuel. This will mix with any water remaining and be burnt off on combustion.
    
11. Start motor... And good luck!

Remember: don't pollute the beach or water with petrol or oil.