Bilges are those parts of a bareboat hull below water level, containing the engines, plumbing and drainage pipe work... bilges should be dry.

But boats being boats water will occasionally leak into the bilges... through leaking drive shaft seals, valves leaking in hull fittings, leaking water tanks, deck hatches etc. so it is important that you check your bilges each day of your bareboat yacht charter.

You need to be certain there is no unusual increase in bilge water levels. The engine room bilge on a motor yacht is particularly important and it should be checked before you start your bareboat engines.

Submersible Bilge Pumps

Each bilge pump operates automatically, with each pump being monitored by pressure or float switches which turn bilge pumps on and off as needed.

Bilge pumps can be located in a number of locations - particularly if your boat is compartmentalised.

Once water reaches a certain level in your bilge, the automatic bilge pump engages and an audible alarm sounds. Bilge pumps generally come on when there is approximately 75mm of water in the bilge and off when the water has been pumped down to 25mm... If a bilge pump and alarm comes on occasionally this is not by itself a cause for concern. However, if they stay on, or come on frequently... check the bilge directly by visual inspection, and see if you can locate the cause... e.g the fresh water tanks / lines could have sprung a lea, a valve on a hull fitting could have failed etc.

It is also important to check over the side to see if water is being pumped out when the bilge pump is on.

On most bareboats you can however, temporarily override the automatic bilge pump by switching the bilge pump to manual operation...this will pump the bilge drier. Return the switch to automatic after the manual operation is completed. Under no circumstances would you switch off the automatic pumps... report any problems or concerns immediately to your bareboat charter operator.

Troubleshooting your electric bilge pump

An automatic bilge pump is designed to keep operating even if completely submerged. If such a pump slows down or stops altogether, the trouble maybe that something has clogged the impeller - the rotating element fixed at the base of the pump housing - see Figure A

Dismantling the bilge pump for cleaning is a simple task, since the impeller's only connection to the motor is through the drive shaft - which is designed to be disconnected easily. A firm tap on the discharge hose will help disengage this connection, allowing the impeller and motor housings to be slipped apart - see Figure B

Once the bilge pump has been removed, dislodge any debris or sludge from the impeller blades with your finger.

Manual bilge pumps

In the event of an emergency, and you lose 12v power to the automatic bilge pump in your bareboat and water is entering the bilges, you will need to use the standby manual pump installed on all bareboats. During your bareboat briefing, make certain you fully understand its operation and just what you need to do if your bilge pump fails to pump properly.

If the bilge pump fails to prime or chokes during operation:

1. Check the inlet hose connection is airtight and does not collapse during the section stroke.
   
2. Inspect inlet and outlet valves for blockages. Clear with finger or screwdriver.
   
3. Inspect diaphragms for damage and check that they are seated properly in the cover groove of the bilge pump.
   
4. Solid objects in the body of the bilge pump may not prevent its operation but should be removed to prevent damage.

Since a manual diaphragm bilge pump is very difficult to operate when submerged, it should be installed well above the lowest point of the bilge, depending on hull conformation of your bareboat.

And because the diaphragm bilge pump is subjected to considerable wrenching by the operation of its hand lever, it should be securely mounted.

Additionally, the intake hose should extend to the deepest part of the bilge, and the hose's end be fitted with a metal strainer to prevent the pump clogging.