Keeping lines neat and tangle free on your bareboat yacht charter is important from a safety standpoint... being able to let out the mainsheet quickly when a big puff hits can keep you from swimming

How to eye splice rope

When splicing rope, the strongest and safest way to make an eye in the end of a rope is to splice the end of the rope back into the standing part...Of course this can only be done with laid rope... Braided rope can be spliced but it requires special tools and some expertise to do it.

These diagrams and pictures of rope splicing will help you to master the eye splice. Don't forget to make at least five tucks into the rope after the first tuck. This makes sure when splicing rope that the splice will never slip and let you down...The secret in doing a successful eye splice is the way you complete those first tucks.

Follow these steps:

Before you start melt the tip, tape (or whip) the ends of each strand so they won't fray as you tuck back into the rope strands.

1. The middle strand (A) is always the first strand tucked in.
   
   
2. The second strand (B) to be tucked is always the one on the left of the middle strand, it must be tucked into the rope left of the middle strand and under the next strand past it.
   
   
3. The eye splice must be turned over before the third strand (C) is tucked. The third strand tuck is always turned back on itself and then tucked into the only strand remaining in the standing part that has not had a tuck put in it. This is the only time that a strand has its direction reversed.
   
   
4. When the first tuck is in (that is, the first tuck of these three strands) hold the splice up by the eye and look at the strands. They should all be equidistant or level around the body of the rope. If they aren't you need to start again.
   
   
5. If the rope strands are equidistant around the rope, turn the splice over to its front side and tuck in the strands in order: (A) strand first, then (B) strand, the (C)... continue until 4-5 tucks have been done... then heat seal the ends to prevent fraying.

Coiling rope

Keeping lines neat and tangle free on your bareboat yacht charter is important from a safety standpoint... being able to let out the mainsheet quickly when a big puff hits can keep you from swimming

Any line not in use on your bareboat should be coiled so that you can store it. We show you below how to coil a rope.

To coil a rope, start at one end and make loops of equal size (usually about 3 feet, or 1m, in diameter) until you get near the other end. When you have about 1.5m (5 feet) left, make three or four tight loops around the "throat" at one end of the rope coil and then put the end through the coils, as shown on the left... for an even more secure coil take the doubled end through the top of the coil and back over the top.

Coiling the halyard

Coiling a halyard after the sail on your yacht has been hoisted and the halyard cleated is done in exactly the same manner as previously mentioned in coiling rope for stowage.

1. The line is gathered in even loops.
2. When the line between the cleat and the loop gets short a loop is made with the line and passed through the rope coil.
3. The loop is then passed over the cleat on the mast.
4. For double security the loop can be passed through the rope coil twice and then hung on the cleat.

This method is used for coiling halyards on practically all bareboats where the halyards are cleated above deck. When the sail is to be lowered the coils can be quickly and easily removed from the cleat, and laid on deck where they should run freely without snarling or twisting.

Securing the end of a line

When a rope is cut, regardless of what fibre it is made of, it will fray unless it is secured in some way to stop it from unraveling. There are many ways of doing this. One is by 'whipping' the end...The other (only for synthetic rope) is to bind the end with plastic tape (electrical tape is fine) and apply heat to the tips of the fibres till they melt together and form a solid tip to the rope.

However, whipping with twine is a superior job... here we show one method of whipping the end of a line, known as 'common' whipping.

Monkey's fist

Very rarely used... but give yourself a pat-on-the-back if you decide to learn to tie it! This is a handy knot to know if you have to regularly throw a rope any distance.

A Monkey's Fist is made in the end of a rope to make it heavier for heaving.

1. Make three loops.
2. Make three more loops outside the first three.
3. Make three final loops over the second three, but inside the first three.
4. Splice the "free" end into the standing part.

Fisherman's bend

The fisherman's bend isn't a common knot because other knots, such as the bowline and the round turn with two half hitches, can also do its job...This knot is less likely than a bowline to loosen but is more difficult to untie, making it a good knot to use when you want to leave the knot in place for a long time. The fisherman's bend is often used to attach a boat anchor to its line, so it's sometimes called an anchor bend.

1. Make two loops around the shackle or anchor chain.
2. Pass the end of the line through both loops and tighten.
3. Add another hitch for safety

Trucker's hitch

This hitch strictly speaking is not a boat knot - but it's so handy a hitch that knowing how to tie it will never go astray. (A combination purchase system and knot all wrapped up in one). - A favourite knot for securing a boat onto a roof rack (or trailer)...this knot could also be used to lash down a life raft.

Make a loop a few feet from the end of the line. Tie an overhand knot with the loop and tighten, keeping the loop big enough to pass a line through. Pass the end of the line around your roof rack or trailer bar Put the line up through the trucker's hitch loop and pull.

You've made a quick 2:1 purchase. You can tie off the line with two half hitches.